In the over-offer of the anti-aging cosmetic market which all promise us a face full of youth, the question arises as to whether and when cosmetics can really help, and if so, why can creams actually tighten the skin and reduce wrinkles? I’ve talked to a lady who needs to know it! Dr. Christel Adomat has devoted herself entirely to this subject. She develops and produces under her label >calaverna< a series of creams specifically for the mature skin. Miss Dr. Christel Adomat is a biochemist and has worked for 14 years in the cosmetic industry. Among other things, she has researched the effective use of cosmetic active ingredients and developed skin care products for the pharmacy market.
Her exciting and equally competent answer with the good news first: yes, there are incredients which can do something against the lines and skin aging. The bad news: The „repairing“ effect is limited, we talk about winkle reduction; first of all prevention.
The cause of wrinkles & co.
The answer comes from the biochemistry. We distinguish:
- The intrinsic skin aging. Biochemists describe the aging of the skin in the genes. It is given to us by nature and can hardly be changed. The so-called good genes.
- The extrinsic skin aging. This means all external influences on the skin: the good and the bad. In this point, we come to the forefront of what we do to our skin with our way of life.
The critical factors with which we accelerate the emergence of wrinkles and other age signs themselves are
- too much sun, more specifically the sun-induced UV radiation
- Inflammation processes
In our skin these influences cause the formation of a reactive oxygen species ROS. The ROS is not normal oxygen but highly reactive molecules that contain oxygen. ROS can react in the skin with a series of components and damage them. Proteins, enzymes and DNA are thereby altered and can no longer fulfill their function. Wrinkles are, among other things, the ugly consequences.
A particularly drastic example of extrinsic skin aging is caused by too much sun more specifically the sun-emanating UV radiation. The UV rays cause a lot of rosiness in the skin. These lead to a breakdown of collagen as well as an inhibition of new synthesis. The result is a loss of a collagen. Collagen is the most important structural protein of the skin and necessary to maintain its elasticity. Collagen degradation leads to a loss of tension and the formation of wrinkles.
For a better skin –
- Avoid or reduce the negative influences.
- Use skin care products that are suitable for counteracting the aging of the skin.
The active ingredients against aging
The prerequisite for effectiveness is, on the one hand, the size of the molecules and, on the other hand, the concentration of the ingredients in the care product. For this, it’s necessary to know that the size of a molecule determines is significant how far it can penetrate into the skin, the smaller the deeper. Equally important is the component of the ingredients and their concentration.
- Against ROS, stress and inflammation
Antioxidants such as Vitamin E (mocopherol or derivatives), Vitamin C, Q10 or antioxidative plant extracts, as well as skin-friendly anti-inflammatory drugs
- Stimulate collagen production and / or the syncytial activity, which is important for the elasticity of the skin:
Vitamin A (may be used in Europe only in small doses in cosmetics)
- Moisturising Effect Boosters
for short-term effects moisturizers are suitable. They accumulate in the skin, store the moisture and give it back by and by. The skin bolsters up from inside, the lines become less. Excellent moisurizers are:
- Hyaluronic acid; The hyaluronic acid molecules remain in the uppermost skin layer, while smaller molecules can go deeper. Herewith all skinparts get powered and moisturized. The natural moisturizing factor NMF, which also occurs naturally in the skin, among other things glycerin, lactate and amino acids.
Despite the answer to the question, what cosmetics can do in regard to the signs of time and age in the face, remains open which are the products to be recommended. Are we in a position to properly evaluate the information under ingredients? Is – for example – the concentration of the ingredients sufficient and are the molecules small enough? I honestly find it quite difficult. In addition, you can‘t take the time for an intensive research normally. I think that at the end of the day, we are very ad-selling, mixed with what the girlfriend says, what the saleswoman says about the product, what our nose tells us and how it feels. Not so that we willingly hold the euro. I am one of them.
So it is also about confidence. The cream serum 01 against fine lines and wrinkles I self-tested (free of charge). I felt my skin certainly like richely powered. Also the booster effect can be seen. I feel absolutely perfect with it. The cream serum is odourless. Furthermore it’s cream and serum in one product and suitable for morning and evening use. Simply great! The developer convinces me most, Dr. Dr. Christel Adomat. She has the idea to manufacture high-quality facial care products completely and I give her competence fully trust. An absolute expert, who does not lock herself behind laboratory walls but can be talked about. Or even simply gives an advice by mail. This creates security, to actually do skin really GOOD.
Finally, a few details about the efficacy and ingredients of the cream serum 01 from calaverna.
The cream serum 01 combines the prevention against aging with the upholstery by effective moisturizer and with the support of the collagen synthesis:
- Antioxidative effect by Vitamin E and Vitamin C; These are synergistic, since Vitamin C can regenerate the vitamin E consumed: both vitamins are contained in a stabilized form so that they are stable in the cream and can unfold their full effect in the skin.
- Antient inflammatory magnolia extract Stimulates collagen synthesis by Vitamin C
- Moisture Hyaluronic acids of different sizes